Friday, September 11, 2015

Day 5 in Kentish Town

Day 5 began with a simple plan. We were going to catch a boat down the Thames then after the boat trip go home for a rest before meeting wil for dinner. it turned out to be such a great and memorable day that I'm left gasping for the best words to describe it. We caught the train to Embankment station and walked through the Westminster Gardens to the riverside and the houses of Parliament. we had packed a picnic to have on the boat as the weather was supposed to be very mild and sunny. The trip down the river was not on a tourist boat, but a crew member gave us an impromptu and very personal tour of the river. The guy was such a comedian and sprinkled his guidenotes with political and personal comment aplenty. He made the place come alive for us. Our destination was Greenwich where we planned to get off for a half hour before catching the next boat to the Thames Barriers. There was something about Greenwich that wouldn't let us go so easily. We walked through some lovely winding street towards the incredibly imposing Christopher wren designed complex. Luckilly for us there was a market in progress with all manner of art, vintage clothing, and brick a brack. We were there for a good hour as we indulged our personal interests. In the end, Brittany found some lovely crystal glasses and that made her day. Where else could you get a full SS uniforn (complete with boots), or some crazy lovely etchings, home-made cakes exploding with fruit and flavour, and a serve of spicy curry all within the space of a house lot. We bought some cakes as well and headed for the naval college. The buildings and grounds have now been taken over by Greenwich University and the music and opera spilling out of the windows greeted a magical atmosphere. The buildings were surrounded by oceans of manicured lawns and you could just imagine naval cadets strutting across these their white breeches, midnight blue coats and brass buttons dazzling the viewer in the sun. the site was also a naval hospital and a home for retired or infirm sailors who would have hobbled to the seats under the avenues of trees and reminisced over voyages and terrors past. The scale of the buildings was enormous and though we did not arrive with a plan to tour the complex, I slipped inside an open door and was hooked. The painted room was a revelation. The sun shot through the arched windows highlighting the timbers and spotlighting the painted images on the walls. The artist was paid by the hour and the whole project which took years must have made him a very rich man. As we walked the colonnaded verandahs the building afforded us so many sights that made us gasp at its beauty. As if on sue, a British warship sailed past the gates at the end of the central lawn. It was hours later before we returned to the boat for the next leg of the trip down to the Thames Barriers. We passed through one arch, did a U turn and came back up river past Canary Wharf. Did you know that wharf is an acronym for warehouse with river front? Wil had booked the table at St Joe for 7.30. We had barely any time to cet a cuppa, change, and cuddle the doggies before we headed out again. Britt organised an uber taxi and it arrived bang on time. The driver was an Afghanistan migrant who had become a Britsh citizen. He had recently given up his job as a mechanic to take on taxi driving full time. Working a 10 hour day for 6 days a week was very lucrative for him. He was such an interesting guy and made even being caught in London peak hour traffic bearable. St John was as quirky and wonderful as a dining experience can be. it was set in a recovering industrial lane littered with industrial refuse, patriotic bunting and hipster bars. We hobbled over the cobbles to a clutch of people spinning out of a restaurant. There were 4 staff greeting us as if we were friends invited over for a dinner party. the owners all charm, braces, paid trousers and battered jackets passed around champagne and relaxed us into conversation. Farook took our coats and steered us under the heaters, his smile and manner dazzled us with its warmth. I have to say I had a small panic attack when i saw that we were going to sit at an enormous communal table. What did I have to say to a room full of total strangers mostly half my age. this was an event rather than a dinner. some spectacular food was teamed with a range of wines from the Loire Valley and as each wine was opened, it was accompanied by some eccentric personal wine notes and reminiscences by the owners. Yes, the first course was a shock. We each got an enormous carrot (complete with green sprig) to dip into some wonderful garlicky mayonnaise. John somehow missed out on his but Farook hustled one up and promised to make it up to him. When we left many hours later he had a bag with Eccles cakes and a doughnut ready for him to take away with his compliments. He had gone down the street to their bakery and come back with the goods. The guy was such a charmer! honestly, this was great food and great wine. The food arrived in enormous platters and the guests took it in turn to serve others at the tale. Britt did a great job of spooning out the fish pie. The people we met were every bit as interesting as the food and wine. I sat next to a friendly american working in London for PWC as an accountant. She was honestly so nice and even for sometimes socially awkward me, the conversation flowed. She had studied in Texas then moved around the world for work. Despite her high flying work and lifestyle, she seemed so down to earth. It was big cuddles when we left at the end of the night. Britt sat next to a very interesting journalist who gave her some very useful leads for companies who need middle eastern expertise on their staff and who happen to be hiring. Britt will be on to it like a shot. Next to Hetti was her new partner whose family runs some Spanish olive groves. John sat next to Emma, a lovely, friendly London Freehills lawyer with a Turkish background. Apparently she and Wil discovered they have friends in common.  Wil sat next to her husband who appears to be a bit of a chameleon but is currently marketing vermouth, amongst other things. Apparently he is dropping some round to Wil. Honestly, the whole day felt like some crazy, wonderful dream. The world can be such an amazing place. Catch you tomorrow, Lily