What a wonderful sleep I had in that super comfy Adega bed. When John and I woke at 7,30 we had our batteries recharged and were ready to go. Though there was a kitchen in the house, we went into the main house for a cuppa and then breakfast. Britt was already awake and making plans to take us for a walk around the perimeter of the property. Of course before we set off we fed the neighbour's adopted cat
It was a big step down to the pool then we headed right, past a tumble of stone walls and through a wild fell. That rogue Theo joined the walk and did his best to let bygones be bygones but I was having none of it. There was enough stone out there to build another house, or at he very least, the art studio Britt is planning for under the eucalyptus. As we walked the mist that was clinging to the hillside began to burn off, and the sun began to ignite the colours of the flowers. We found the most amazing Chinese lantern fuscias clinging to the side of the stone perimeter wall next to a flourishing yellow Banksia climbing rose.
It was Easter Sunday and there was the double attraction in Chaos, the Sunday service at the local church and the regular Sunday market. This was no scented candle affair. The market was all local produce sold by the local producers. It was also an opportunity for locals to get in some new kitchenware, storage containers or even a length of chain. It was a purely utilitarian affair and of course an opportunity to catch up with neighbours. Britt often sees an aged local, dolled up in a fur coat, wheeling her barrow up to the market, filling it with produce and struggling back down the hill with it.
We arrived in time for me to duck into the church and catch the last of the service. The church was packed with local families who spilled into the market as soon as the service was over. Britt bought us some huge Portuguese tarts and filled doughnuts to take away, but we only took them as far as the old cafe across the road from the church. None of your fancy cafe latte here. There is espresso and if you ask for milk you get a drop of milk in that. We sat outside and enjoyed the tarts with the coffee and the locals.
We went home to change clothes and set off for Dornes, a village about half an hour drive away, on the shores of Lake Lago Azul. The deep green lake serpentines its way around a series of promontories, that are fringed with sandy beaches. With it being Easter Sunday, we thought it best to book a table for lunch. The owner warned that if we waited till the church service ended, there would be no chance of a table, so we opted for an early lunch. We were seated on the vast deck overlooking the lake, at the Fonte de Cima. The restaurant had a well earned reputation for great local food. We began with local bread, soft white cheese and olives. then the local cray and vegetable soup arrived, followed by roast pig with potatoes and miges (a warm wonderful green salad), and fish from the lake with beans, then duck shredded into a savoury rice. Beer was the perfect accompaniment. It was after two before we staggered out.
Johnny had read about a scenic lookout high above the restaurant and so we set off hoping to find it. The road quickly gave way to track and then to what I can only call a twisting and winding donkey track. Full of courage and confidence (at least on the outside), Britt urged the little Peugeot on and on. To the left there were steep naked cliffs and the obvious debris from rock rockfalls and landslips. On the right there was a sheer drop into the Castello de Bode reservoir.
Do I need to add that there was no-where wide enough to do a u turn. Maps were consulted. John and Britt got out and walked on to check there was still road ahead. The decision was taken to press on. It was with considerable relief that after a ruined house we finally saw the road begin to descend and take us back to our starting point. I was amazed that on such a perilous road that has a 1:4 gradient and obvious dangers, there had not been a single warning.
All through lunch we could hear the church bells pealing and so the obvious place to go was up to the local church and older historic tower. It was another steep climb, this time on foot. The tower looked medieval but the church was very ornate and clearly cared for by the locals.
Even though it was only 3.30, the big meal, the sun, the exercise and (at least for me) the drama of that mountain drive, left us all feeling very tired and snoozy. Home to the adega and a cup of tea. of course Britt's work follows her everywhere and it was straight on to the computer to bash out a proposal for work.
Just a simple toastie for dinner tonight...and of course we still have the filled doughnuts bought from the market in the morning.
