It was time to leave Lisbon this morning so we packed our bags before going out to breakfast. As we walked own the hill to Copenhagen Lab, at the bottom of the street a massive cruise liner was crossing. It was reminiscent of the liners entering Venice's Grand Canal. On the streets there was ample evidence of the previous nights festivities, including one reveller outside the breakfast place asleep and still cuddling two beers. At 10 o'clock the three churches nearby sounded their bells and the faithful were reminded of where they should be.
Mohammed our Uber driver made quick work of stowing our luggage an we were on our way. Sunday traffic was a dream. There was very little of it. The Oriente station was nothing short of a magnificent modern light filled structure. High canopies of glass let so much light in. Rail, road and bus services were beautifully integrated. We had booked a Peugeot, but the available car was a gorgeous automatic Mini Cooper. We finally worked out how to get the car into gear and set off for Cascais. Try as we might we couldn't master the on board navigation system but google maps on our phones sufficed.We found underground seafront parking at Cascais and it was a few steps to the beach. Cascais was a Portuguese Double Bay, with expensive cars, loads of boutiques and people with well developed sun tans. We stopped for a drink and tart before setting off for a long walk across the three beaches that made up the seafront. This was a place to see and be seen. Some very beautiful hotels clung to the cliffs surrounding the bay and there was a huge marina. The whole front was filled with open bars and restaurants. On the main street we found a great shop selling gourmet sandwiches and drinks. We bought supplies for our picnic. The only problem was, that there was endless sand but no shade to sit in. We ended up a short distance from the front in a lovely park with a small carousel.
Cascais. was a very modern place and this was a relief to Johnny, who was up to his quota of historical landmarks for a while. After lunch we walked along the right hand side of the bay towards the marina. High on the hill, facing the sea was a huge fortification. The walls were massive and high. Of course we had to look inside. The former fort had been converted into a sprawling cultural centre which was divided into specialist workshops. Other larger buildings has been converted into hotels. The thick curtain walls had been subdivided into residences and the stonework had been punched through with suitably heavy window openings. it looked pretty incredible. At the end of the promontory was a vast marina and outdoor restaurants. Cascais seemed to ooze wealth.
Our next stop was Sintra. getting there was a breeze but finding the hotel less so. The roads flicked and twisted around like a cut snake. Google maps lost the plot and kept shouting at us to do a U turn. We had planned to park the car and have a walk around the old part of the town to orient us but in the end, we decided it was best to find the accommodation and have an hour or two's rest before dinner. Sintra was high up in the mountains, and Quinta Velha (a grand old house), was up there inside the national park.
We were welcomed by Armie the housekeeper who took personal pride in showing us through the house and grounds. She has been with the family for 20 years, travelling with them from the Philippines. She had not been home to her 3 children and husband in all that time, but her work had ensured that they had a good life. One son now works as an accountant in the USA. Armie's constant companion is the family pony. Actually Its a HUGE lovely one years old dog called Leica.
Armie encouraged us to use the pool and as we were not brave enough to venture into Sintra on those devilish roads, we took her up on her offer. The pool was a salty and gloriously warm 25 degrees. Swimming to the side we had a view over the whole valley below and the city of Sintra spread along it.
Our personal cook Armie had previously taken our order and dinner was served on a rose petal strewn tablecloth in the garden. The setting sun ignited the colours of the Pena Palace which rose another 150 metres above us on the next hill. Cooking is Armie's passion and she delighted in our enjoyment of it. We began with black sausage, onion and butter dip. Then we had a pumpkin soup, followed by salmon wellington. Dessert was chocolate mousse and lemon tart. As we worked through our meal, the sun set and a low cloud swallowed the Pena Palace.
We moved inside for coffee and Armie had got a roaring fire going in the lounge area. Our wonderful daughter Brittany had given us this stay as a birthday present. It was an unbelievable experience from beginning to end. Thank you Britty.
