Friday, November 24, 2017

Day 23 Siena

Day 23 Siena
The day began darkly with the news that my friend’s husband succumbed to his illness and died overnight. This left me in a pall of sadness.

We had a nice breakfast in the hotel and walked down into the town with the general plan to follow the tourist trail we had had investigated. Things seemed a long way off on the map but in 20 minutes or so we were down in the historic heart of Siena.

The towers we could see on the horizon drew us like magnets and that was just as well as the streets, even with the help of the I-Pad were a little hard to follow. Through bricked and cobbled lanes we wound ourselves down to the Piazza del Campo. This was a beautiful area of sweeping pavement, surrounded by a series of grand buildings. This was the place in which the famous historic horse race takes place, but today there were only the occasional banners to suggest the tribal rivalries and pageantry that the race inspires in the people of the city.

We walked through the piazza to an area beyond the grand municipal buildings where a market building overlooked a large green valley between the houses. From here we worked our way up and down the streets, with no particular plan in mind. There was something rambling, unfocussed and even difficult in our walk today.

We did come across the main church of the city, the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. It sparkled whitely in the weak sun and there was some fabulously detailed statuary decorating the surface, but we did not go in. Up until then we had not seen any army guards in Siena, but outside the Duomo there were a couple, but we thought they were more there for public reassurance than to stop anything violent as they were unarmed.

Our rambling, unfocussed walk continued and looking for places that would afford us a view across the city we found the Basilica of San Francesco. It was very large and dark, and even though the tour book boasted that it had many important art works, it was so dark that we could barely see them. Leaving the church we caught sight of a colonnade next door that looked interesting. We followed our noses into what turned out to be the Economics faculty of the University of Siena.

It was hard to keep up our spirits today and we seemed to feel the tiredness much more than we had on other days. After buying pannini and taking them to seats outside for a picnic outside Santa Caterina de Siena, we thought it best to head back towards the hotel. Opposite our hotel was the most enormous, and massive fort. We had seen people walking along the walls but finding the way up proved difficult as there was only one entry point in the whole fort. We found the stairs that raised us to the wall and walked around a bit of the way. There was also a large park within the walls and a few smooching couples making the most of the privacy (until we came along). The building also housed the Siena Jazz organization and with the windows open, in the fort’s courtyards the sound of rehearsing musicians floated.

It was a short walk to the hotel and we were both very grateful for a rest and a nap.

About 3pm we woke and decided that sleeping away our holiday was a waste. We wanted to go out but we had had enough of central Siena and the jumble of brick buildings and darkened laneways. Johnny found a very pretty, historic hill town that we could drive to in a half an hour. It was the town of Monteriggione. At a time when each little city was a state and had its own army, this little fortressed town was an outpost of Siena, which kept a lookout for the enemy Florentine army. It was completely beautiful with its many artisan workshops and little eateries. There was only a handful of visitors to the town, including us, and the lack of tourist crowds, the ruined towers, the gathering clouds and the waning light, all combined to give the little hamlet a really romantic appearance.