Day 26 Lecce

Wonderful start to the day with the ever solicitous Luca preparing a breakfast banquet for us. It was served in the dining room and we took it out to the garden. All the expected things were there, but also a selection of home made cakes. Johnny sampled the chocolate one and announced it ‘wonderful”.

It was a day for exploring Lecce on foot today and there was a loose plan to begin at the castle and the search out some of the 40 palaces and 40 churches of the city. We viewed the castle from the outside but thought it best to reserve our energy for other sights. The palaces rose up over the smallest and unlikely streets. They were essentially huge and grand houses, protected by high walls and with imposing courtyards behind imposing gated entries. So many of them had been turned over to hotels or apartments for the locals.

We took a short break in a lovely central park just outside one on the central palaces. It was a lovely green oasis criss-crossed with paths and dotted with the statues of the city's notable men. There was not a single celebration of the work and achievements of women, even though over the centuries you have to imagine that women were part of the life of the city.

We came across a very large roman amphitheatre capable of seating 15,000 people. Over the years it had been covered up and the space above used as a car park. When it was rediscovered, a massive amount of archaeological work was undertaken to reinstate it. This work was continuing today.

The walk was in the sun and feeling a bit depleted we stopped for a fruit smoothie before continuing with our explorations. The churches we visited were not as heavily decorated as some we had seen but they were all interesting. One church stood apart. It was covered with a crazy assortment of animals and mythological creatures. It looked like an enormous marzipan structure. It was then on to the Duomo (Cathedral); next to it stood a bell tower that soared to a dizzying 70 metres. Johnny, still suffering the after effects of the Matera Tibetan bridge climb, declined the opportunity to take in the view from the top. I of course was never tempted.

We were spoilt for places to eat. There was a general plan to avoid both pizza and panini. We opted for a plate of artisan potato chips and fried seafood, which we shared. It was perfect and just the right size. On the way there we had found a shop where the owner made leather bags on the premises and so it was a great place to get Johnny a nice soft leather shoulder bag for his travels. He will look properly and stylishly Italian when he uses it tonight, and at home.

Some of the most impressive parts of the old town were the massive carved stone gates that surrounded the town. Each one had been commissioned for a particular purpose and were decorated appropriately. Having become totally confused as to which way we were facing or where we were heading, I was just pleased to plod along after Johnny. I’m pretty certain that there was very little of Lecce that we did not see.

And meanwhile in Paris, Zak celebrated his 45th birthday, with loving family and stunning Parisian cakes which Britt sourced. Many Happy Returns Zakky.