Day 2 April 9 Lisbon and Chaos

 

Day 2 April 9 Lisbon and Chaos

Despite being falling down exhausted over dinner and asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow, I woke up as usual at about 3.30. Normally I would put on a streaming service and let it read me back to sleep but the dodgy wifi at the flat put paid to that and so I got up and started editing photos for the blog. John woke up as well with a poor tummy and a powerful headache. We thought we had brought along with us all possible over the counter medicines, but it appeared that we had left the strong headache pills at home. Bugger!

By 8.30 Johnny’s head had stabilized and we could continue with our plans for the day. Wil took off for a lazy 30Km run whilst we headed off to the flea market down by the front. Of course this was a brilliant opportunity to try the famous Lisbon trams and being early meant that there was no trouble getting a seat.

The word “ amazing” is often overused and misapplied, but in this instance the tram ride totally deserved that description. It creaked and whined a serpentine path through the streets at a terrifying pace, mixing it with the pedestrians that risked life and limb to cross its tracks and the cars that tried to intimidate the driver by rushing into its path in the belief that their superior speed gave them some kind of priority. One such grey car missed a serious bingle by something less than 5 centimetres. The fierce clanging by the tram and squealing of brakes told the whole suburb that a lunatic with a death wish was behind the wheel of the car.

The market was astonishingly large, cascading in a series of terraces across the breast of the hill. We arrived early as Britt warned us that it could become quite crowded. We had not had breakfast but the plan was to start the day at the Copenhagen coffee shop first and to fortify ourselves for the hunt with something substantial. A platter was ordered with egg, cheese, ham, pastries, jam etc. Everything was fresh, healthy and interesting.

Britt was on the hunt for a particular shape of vintage wine glasses, but we must have stopped at a hundred of assorted stalls loaded with various merchandise. Did we find the glasses? No, but we almost bought jewellery and a variety of other interesting stuff. Three hours later and with the market now throbbing with people and a conga line of tuk tuks cutting a swathe through the crowd, we realized we had to make a dash back to the hotel to get our luggage out of our rooms. But almost as we had left the market we saw a great artisan pottery shop and while Britt headed for a huge grey vase, it was the pottery fish that caught my eye. Yes there were various in store consultations and even some over an international phone line…and then a decision was taken. I would buy two pink sardines for Charlie's ocean wall. 

It was over 10 mins later before the goods were packaged for transport and money was exchanged. We were really late for check out and the original plan for a slowish trip back up the hill was ditched in favour of an Uber trip back. With all the people crossing the main road near the market, the uber’s progress was slow and when he did pick us up, Google maps sent it on a long circle route that avoided the road congestion. 

Meanwhile Wil had returned to the hotel, packed and had set off for the cafe at which we were meeting him for lunch. It was a lovely lunch of pretty fancy sandwiches and then while Johnny and I set off to get our luggage out of the hotel store, Britt and Wil found the car and drove it back to the hotel to pick us up. It's amazing how britt and wil seem to know people across the world. The cafe owners were like old friends. With the car fully loaded we set off for Chaos whilst Wil met up with friends for a relaxing afternoon. There is only one way to drive around Lisbon and that is with bold, fast confidence. Britt was soon into mode and we began to belt along. 

It was 4pm by the time we got close to the Adega and it was decided to drop into a massive supermarket on the way home to do a bit of shopping and get the makings for dinner. This place was Costco big and of course we remembered lots of things that were needed beyond the 4 or 5 items we had gone to the shop for. 

We took the slower and more interesting route to Chaos to see more of the local area. Chaos appeared very much an honest rural working district. You can almost imagine the farming folk with ruddy faces from the sun and wind that is everpresent in a working life. Along our route we noticed that the Camino cut through this district too. In fact later, it was pointed out that some of the pilgrims cut through the Adega’s land on their journey to salvation. They stand at the tractor gate looking longingly at the pool just out of their reach

The Adega is so much more than a house. It’s something like a compound with two residences, farm sheds and expansive land that is under cultivation. Apparently the whole Adega property was the working farm for the big house next door. The neighbour's house looks a bit lonely and abandoned since the lady died. It would be so nice if Britt and Wil cold buy it and re-integrate the property. The next door cat already teats Wil and Britt as her new owners and lounges about the yard warming herself on the stone path.

We had a great tour of the property. and even met Theo, the white cat that sometimes visits from down the street. We did not hit it off and he left me scratched and bleeding when I tried to pet him. Ok, we know where we stand now. We took cake and tea to the garden and watched the sun as it began its journey into another part of the Earth.. sitting in the cane chairs and watching high above the tumbling olive groves beyond the pool, we felt as if we were on top of the world. A while later we swung across to chips and beer. The day had been quite warm but the setting sun was chased away by a light, cold breeze. 

Britt stoked a fire in the huge cast iron firepit before preparing potato bravas and salad to go with the roast chicken we had earlier bought. It was nice having our first dinner out there on the stone table and watching the lights come on under the trees as the sky darkened. The house glowed welcomingly with lights and we decamped inside for coffee and cake.

It had been another big, wonderful  day.

 

8 April 2023 Lisbon

 

April 8 2023

Work finished at 3.15 and by 4pm I was home and getting into travel clothes.4.30 Perry was at the door and loading our bags into his car. An airport email cautioned us to get to the airport early as crowds were expected to travel across the country for Easter, but after some initial heavy traffic, we got to Tulla with lots of time to spare. Checking in was a breeze and we were soon in the Marhaba lounge and having a belated lunch. The last day of school was so busy that the only food I had managed to eat. was one banana.

Premium economy was a revelation. So clean, glossy and spacious. We were waved past the long line of economy passengers and onto the plane. Everything about the premium experience was wonderful and with the seats just outside the cockpit, it was so quiet that both John and I slept for at least 6 hours.

A 14 hour flight got us into Dubai and Britt got us into the business lounge. Don’t ask how she managed it as members can only have one guest at a time. The special treatment continued on the Dubai-Lisbon leg, where Britt  mentioned she was a Gold member and again we were swept past the long lines of tied passengers and onto the plane.

Of course there was less room in economy but having all three seats, it was quite comfortable and especially as we all travel with noise cancelling headphones, a really peaceful trip. John and I didn’t mind  the airline food, but Britt had taken precautions and brought along her own food.

Britt had organized for the lovely Sergio, a huge ex special forces guy who now works as a private chauffer), to pick us up ang get us to out hotel. It felt like a scene from one of the Bourne films, as Sergio flew through a labyrinth of twists and turns to get us to our destination.

We stayed at the My Suite boutique hotel. Each suite is really a mini apartment. We scored one on ground level with huge glass doorway out to a tiny balcony.  Beyond the balcony was a little Mediterranean garden with a fountain, greenery, a turtle (!) and festoon lights. The quiet trickle of the water from the fountain created such a peaceful mood in our living space.

As we unpacked and had a shower, Wil arrived from the Adega. He has driven the Peugeot from Chaos so that we could use it for a slow drive north after a couple of days in Lisbon. what a lovely thing to do.

The Lisbon weather was just glorious. It was spring and we managed to arrive in the city on a glorious, blue sky summer day. Being good Friday, the city was full of people at ease, meandering through the streets and parks, wandering through markets, and filling the restaurants that spilled out on to the footpaths. Our hotel was in the Real district and walking the streets was a feast for the eyes. Lisbon seems to have been built on a convulsion of hills. We were warned by Ginny that when you are not going up, you are plunging down, but it was all worth it because the geography made for some incredibly beautiful streetscapes. Streets plunged down at a vertiginous angle, and in the distance you could just catch a glimpse of the sea and even the yachts streaking across the water.

We lost Britt to the attractions of one of the shops having a sale and she emerged some time later with a lovely ecru canvas jacket. As we waited there was lots of entertainment as we watched the historic trams rumble past. Nearby was a huge park and we heads for the shade of some enormous Moreton Bay figs. The café under the trees was groaning with people but we were lucky to snag a table. Is there a more pleasant way to spend a warm, wonderful day, than sitting in a park, listening to a live band and sipping on a cool drink? I think not.

From here we took a winding route through the streets. Every street had a generous serving of interesting architecture, We ended up at a  lovely little park set around a fountain and fringed with lovely little restaurants. Britt had already booked a local restaurant for us so rather than walking further afield, we turned back to have a short rest before venturing out for the evening.

Wil had recommended the most wonderful restaurant in the cool Real district and it was only 100 metres or so from our hotel but it was still a rush getting there as Johnny had put his head down for a nap and gone into a full sleep. I was so distracted with the blog that time flew by..

The meal was superb. The food was very like the food at that super fancy restaurant you kids sent s to in South Melbourne. The bread arrived with a herbed pork fat and we started the whole show with a sequence of tiny tasting morsels that looked like beautiful flowers. We had beautiful tasting and beautiful looking meals and it was a chance to try some really unusual things like sea urchins with pink prawns, scallops with cauliflower and almond, or codfish with cockles and leeks. When we asked for a non alcohol drink and they didn't have any, they made a bright lemon and soda drink for us in the kitchen. The Essencial restaurant was really something special. the kitchen was in the dining room and sometimes the chef wandered over to the tables to explain a meal or serve up a sauce. I think this will become a favourite with Britt and Wil. 

New Zealand Day 10 Travelling home

Day 10 Travelling home

We had a well-deserved sleep-in and then went down to the dining room for breakfast. Even though Johnny had organized for a late check- out, we thought it best to do the full pack up and store our bags in the hotel store downstairs. We took a walk down Queen St to the wharf, but the QE has long sailed. We walked across a bridge to the revived Wyndham Quarter, which was a hive of activity. Building works were going on everywhere, converting the once industrial area into a beautiful dockside precinct. We guessed that this was in preparation for the America’s Cup defence in 2021 as the Emirates crew headquarters was also down there.

We walked far into the distance and came across a distant wharf where the super-rich tie up their super rich yachts. There was one monster that John and I guessed must have cost at least 50 million. Wrong! Later research showed that in 2008 it cost about 300 million.

Walking back, we stopped for a coffee and then walked back to the hotel for our luggage. Luckily, the airport shuttle bus picked us up at the door of the hotel. We wound our way through the city and finally hit the freeway. Johnny had already checked us in so we checked in our own luggage and went to the Diners Lounge upstairs. We had a lovely lunch and able to charge up our devices for the journey back to Melbourne. Virgin had a lot of in-flight entertainment but to access it you needed your own phone or I-pad. The journey home was uneventful but the descent and landing in Melbourne was a bit bumpy. Still, a strong tailwind delivered us home earlier than expected. As planned Ginny was there to deliver us home.

We’d has a lovely time away but it was great to arrive home. We set to unpacking and washing clothes straight away and before we knew it it was 10pm (or midnight NZ time). Bed!